Julia Chanourdie yesterday sent the 9b / 5.15b “Eagle-4” in Saint-Léger du Ventoux, France. She is now the third Woman to climb 9b and the first French Woman to climb the grade!
Julia Chanourdie at 24 is the only French Woman to have qualified for the 2020 Olympics by taking second place at the IFSC Toulouse Qualifier in 2019. She will be competing alongside Male team-mates Mickael and Bassa Mawem.
Just earlier this year she sent her first 9a+ with “Super Crackinette”, also in Saint-Léger and become one of a handful of Women to have climbed at the grade. Watch the send. Julia put out a picture on her insta story of the send and there is now a full video of the climb below.
The route was bolted by Elie Morieux and sent in 2018 by Adam Ondra. It has only seen one other repeat which was by Hugo Parmentier this April. The name is a play on words referencing Ondra’s penchant for screaming while sending. “Eagle-4” (with the hyphen – “trait”) pronounced sounds like “Il gueule trés fort” in French, which means “he yells very loudly”. Listen.
More Sport Climbing
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This route is one of three(-ish) 9b sports routes in France. “Akira” could be the world’s first 9b but has long been mired in controversy and speculation over “created” holds or glueing as well as general grade debate. “C.R.S” is the other 9b though there is a Seb Bouin route that he gave a 9b/+ called “La Rage d’Adam” which could be France’s hardest.
Back in July Laura Rogora of Italy send the 9b “Ali Hulk Extension Total Sit Start” to become the second Woman to climb 9b. Angela Eiter was the first Woman to climb 9b with “La Planta de Shiva” in late 2017.
Photos from Julia’s insta and Philip on thecrag.
