Five Things Friday – Sport Sends and Climbing News – 3rd May

Our on-off column rounding up this week’s climbing news from around the globe. New entrants to 9b sports climbing, non-stop world cup bouldering and speed action, new speed climbing world records and more. Follow us on facebook, instagram, or twitter for more.

Piotr Schab Sends 9b “Fight or Flight”

Polish climber Piotr Schab has climbed his first 9b “Fight or Flight”. This makes him the first Polish climber to achieve the grade and one of less than 20 people to have ever climbed this hard. The route is a Chris Sharma classic from 2011 in Oliana, Spain.

View this post on Instagram

NO MORE FLIGHTS ‼️ Ever since I remember 9b was there on my life goals list. 2018 was planned to be the year to make the dream come true – I spent around 15 days trying “Fight or Flight” but in the end I wasn’t even able to climb it in two parts. The goal was faraway. This winter I decided to focus on my weakest points and together with my coaches we’ve set a serious training program. From the first day of this trip I felt a big difference in the route and a little later it turned out I can actually climb it until the last crux – the famous dyno. The dyno itself shot me down for a few days. Had to change the mindset from “trying” to “doing”. The pressure kicked in. The day came. I felt fresh and strong, motivated right enough. The conditions were prime, I was ready. The try was unique, I took risks and felt confident the whole way up, went all in at the dyno and suddenly it was over. So many years of training & dreaming closed in such a short period of time. Let’s live in the moment. Thank you @honngy , @lumartinez_93 , @jorgverhoeven, @patxiusobiaga_pucseries for sharing the passion for the project and @chris_sharma for giving us the opportunity to test ourselves. Thank you #MotionLab – Maciej Oczko and Magda Terlecka for commitment and help through all these years. Thank you my @julkastankiewicz & family for believing in me. Thank you Korona crew for motivation. Thank you @wojtekozakiewicz for the photo. • • • • @patagonia_climb @patagoniaeurope @scarpa_pl @scarpaspa @iurapl @blackdiamond @sublimeclimbing @wingschalk #climbing #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_lovers #climbing_worldwide #climbinglife #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #timetoclimb #climb #climber #wspinanie #wspinaczka #wspinaniepl #arrampicata #klettern #outdoorclimbing #escalada #escalade #rocks #rockclimbing #sportclimbing #doyouclimb #climbingrocks #iloooveit #grippedmagazine #rockandice #climberslife #climbingisbliss #training #wingschalk

A post shared by Piotr Schab (@piotr_schab) on

New Jim Pope Film – UK Crusher has a new Film

Jim Pope is a young but very hard climber from the UK that has been blazing up the grades in the UK and branching out to Europe. Jim is 19 years old and was born in Hackney, London, but now lives in Sheffield. He was on the GB Junior team and is taking part in the current Bouldering World Cup circuit.

Famous for climbing 8b+ at 15, Jim has also sent the British super scary trad route “Appointment with Death” E9 6c. The route has a single wire for protection, and a fall would need the belayer to take a running jump off a hill for the climber to not hit the floor.

In the film Jim visits Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway. The area was partly developed by Adam Ondra and famously where the hardest sports climb in the world – “Silence” 9c – was completed by him.

Climbing World Cup News

Following on from the new Women’s World Record time of 7.101 set by YiLing Song we have more speed and bouldering news from the IFSC World Cup series.

The Wujiang Speed results are in with Dmitrii Timofeev of Russia taking Gold in the Men’s. He acheived his own personal best as well as the fastest time of the day in the 1/2 final with 5.58 seconds. This is only .01 seconds off of Reza Alipour Shenazandifar’s world record of 5.48.

Aleksandra Rudzinska took gold in the Women’s with a clear lead in this event. She was the only woman to get any result under 7.3 seconds, with 7.285 in the qualification round and 7.28 in the 1/2 final.

In last week’s Bouldering results from the blistering heat of Chongqing, Manuel Cornu of France took Gold with a hugely impressive win over Tomoa Narasaki. Janja Garnbret again showed her complete dominance in Bouldering for Slovenia. Topping out every single problem in qualifications and the finals she takes another Gold for the very strong Slovenian team.

Alex Puccio sends 8B+ / V14 “Heritage” in Val Bavona, Switzerland

Alex Puccio is the biggest name in US bouldering and made headlines when she announced she wouldn’t climb in the Olympics. The decision was made so that she wouldn’t have to focus on styles of climbing that didn’t suit her, or that she didn’t enjoy. Being able to really focus on outdoors climbing and bouldering specifically seems to be really paying off.

View this post on Instagram

Last day best day!!! So psyched to have climbed “Heritage” V14/ 8B+ in Val Bavona Switzerland 🇨🇭!!! 😆 I have been pretty out of shape for me and still have a lot of work to do to get back where I was, this is why I didn’t try Heritage for the first few weeks of my trip. I then decided to try it because it was always on my list of climbs I wanted to do and my friends were most psyched for this area. Well I definitely surprised myself when I was falling grabbing the hold at the lip on day 3! This happens 2 times this day with one try on the hold. The last move isn’t suppose to be that hard, but at my height you can’t use the normal left foot hold that makes the move not so bad. Instead I had to use a really high, and too high for me even, foot that made me be in this weird balled up position where then I had to punch to the last hold before the top out. The weather was highs of 17-23C / 62-73F everyday with sun and not much wind at all and the boulder sits down in a area that doesn’t really get air flow. After the “colder” day where I got really close I thought it would happen next day, but the weather got sooo hot and really humid! I was having trouble just staying on the holds and not greasing off. Finally on the last day It because a bit breezy and had some cloud coverage. The high was still at 17-18C/ 62-64F, But the breeze made it way less humid! For my warm up I decided to do the top half one time and then I sat for a few minutes to chill. I looked at the climb and had a special feeling. I didn’t want to overthink it or psych myself out, but I had a feeling where I knew it was time. For my second try I decided to go from the start and the magic happened! I was standing on top of the boulder!!! 😄😆😁🙏 Thank you @westmountainmedia , @dawoods89 and @robinoleary for coming out all those days I didn’t send for support. I definitely got frustrated from time to time when the first few moves felt hard because of the humidity. 😂 @petzl_official @scarpana @frictionlabs

A post shared by Alex Puccio (@alex_puccio89) on

This is Puccio’s fifth V14 and it would be amazing to see her step up from this to V15. “Heritage” is a V14 / 8B+ originally put up by the prolific Carlo Traversi in 2012. Due to her height and reach, Alex had to use different beta to most other ascents, noting “This boulder is way harder being under a certain height! Have to hop out of the toe hook for the first crux move to the left hand gaston and then the last move to the right hand just under the lip is WAY harder since for my height you can’t use the good left lower foot others use. Have to ball up and punch to the last hold. Was a huge crux for me!!!”.

Big Climbing Gear Sales and new Black Diamond Camalot C4

Black Diamond new Camalot C4s 2019 - climbernews

Moosejaw are offering an extra 20% off of items already on sale with the code HURRYUP for the the next 96 hours through this link. You can get the really well reviewed and light weight Black Diamond Solution harness for $42. La Sportiva Miura’s for $92. Our “most comfortable” rated beginner shoes the Tarantulace for only $52. This Mammut 5 pack of quickdraws for $61 is a steal too.

As Black Diamond has just released the new redesigned Camalot C4’s in the 4, 5, and 6 sizes (the big ones used in off-width’s), the older C4’s are now on sale. You can buy the old 4, 5, 6 size C4’s for a knock down price directly from Black Diamond here, or ALL sizes of the last C4’s at 30% off from Backcountry.

YiLing Song 7.101 Women's Speed Climbing World Record - climbernews

YiLing Song Breaks Speed Climbing World Record at Chongqing

Mishka Ishi Byaku-dou Youngest V15 8C Boulder - climbernews

13 Year Old Mishka Ishi becomes Youngest Person to Send V15 Boulder